Meal delivery services became essential during the COVID-19 pandemic, when millions of Americans were under lockdown and restaurants were shut to visitors.

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But these days the platforms are increasingly finding themselves under fire, with politicians seeking to regulate the industry and restaurateurs accusing the likes of DoorDash, Grubhub and Uber Eats of freeloading. And they are looking for ways to do without them.

In the first nine months of this year, DoorDash has likely filled more than 1 billion orders, most of them in the US, where the company is the market leader.

But Mathieu Palombino, founder of the New York-based pizza chain Motorino, calls the boost provided by delivery apps a "big illusion" because more orders do not bring bigger profits to restaurants.

"When you receive 30 or 40 orders a day, you are happy. But the problem is that it does not translate into profits," Palombino told AFP.

Food delivery services can charge restaurants fees of up to 30 per cent of the bill for a meal, according to their websites.

To address that problem, in August the New York city council passed a law, capping third-party delivery fees at 15 per cent.